NEW YORK, N.Y. – Handcrafted in New York was the theme of Nanette Lepore’s show Wednesday, while Michael Kors got his audience California Dreamin’ on a winter’s day.
Lepore, Kors and other designers presented fall-winter collections on the seventh day of New York Fashion Week. The shows have been taking place both at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents at Lincoln Center and at other locations around the city, as bone-chilling weather persisted and a snowstorm was forecast for Thursday.
MICHAEL KORS: CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’
Michael Kors’ fall collection was inspired by the left coast, and it was hard not to think that the Mamas and the Papas, featured on the soundtrack, were absolutely right when they sang: “I’d be safe and warm if I was in LA.”
But alas, all the guests at the show were bundled up for winter and gearing for Thursday’s predicted storm, which threatened to wreak havoc on the final day of Fashion Week.
At least they had some A-list celebrities to look at: Michael Douglas, Blake Lively, Rose Byrne and Freida Pinto all came to pay their respects to one of the most successful designers in the business.
And they had the clothes to look at: Big, soft sweaters of every kind, and lots of wool, cashmere, alpaca, shearling, mohair, flannel and fur.
In a pre-show interview, Kors described his collection as “a hybrid — a little bit of the kind of easiness that you find in northern California in places like Big Sur where you just kind of … unplug, mixed with something that’s very polished and urbane and very big city.”
Kors said he was designing for active, every day wear rather than special occasions. “You know nothing bothers me more than someone buying something magnificent and someone wearing it once,” he said.
Kors is popular on the red carpet and had high praise for Sandra Bullock, nominated for “Gravity.”
“Sandra Bullock, my God, bravo, hello! You know I think between Sandra and Mrs. Obama they’ve convinced every woman that life in fashion is definitely not over once you pass 45.”
—Jocelyn Noveck, http://www.twitter.com/JocelynNoveckAP
NANETTE LEPORE: A BOHEMIAN VIBE, MADE IN NEW YORK
Nanette Lepore, known for a bohemian vibe and youthful feminine designs, sent out sheer beaded tops, shaggy-collared alpaca coats with girlie geometric prints and dresses and flouncy skirts done in Bordeaux red, violet and a smoky rose.
She used netting to expose some skin in tops and dresses, and flannel for jackets and pants, along with a belted poncho and skirt. An alpaca turtleneck was paired with a trouser suit, and she used a black shag collar in a look featuring an embroidered strapless dress worn with a knit parka. There were a few asymmetrical below-the-knee hems.
Lepore’s pop of colour came in a bright violet shearling coat worn with a handloom print dress. Some of her coats included zip pockets on sleeves. Sleeves were leather on one hooded flannel coat.
Lepore has received some attention in recent months for her commitment to New York’s garment industry. Chirlane McCray, the wife of New York’s new mayor, Bill de Blasio, wore a Lepore outfit to her husband’s inauguration in January, as did their daughter.
BEAUTIFUL AND BIZARRE: THE COVETED INVITES
They’re beautiful, bizarre and sometimes bewildering. The coveted invitations that grant admission to New York Fashion Week events range from ornate floral to felt to minimalist all-black.
But don’t assume that information such as who the designer is — or even the location of the show — will be readily apparent. The shiny black cardboard invitation to Alexander Wang’s show last weekend at the Brooklyn Navy Yard bore no details on place or time, but it did have a tiny sentence on the reverse: “Touch to reveal front.” Letters became visible with the show details once a hand was placed on the card, presumably a chemical reaction from heat.
Diane von Furstenberg’s invitations bore a colorful floral swirl on a black background, while an invite to an Oscar de la Renta party was pretty and romantic, covered with red, pink and beige roses. The invitation to the show for Edun, the label founded by rocker Bono and his wife to promote the fashion industry in Africa, was covered with soft grey felt.
The DKNY invite was hologram-like, showing different images — including the DKNY logo and the Statue of Liberty — depending which way you tilted it. Christian Siriano’s invitation showed a body with a protruding breast, covered in black and white polka dots.
Manolo Blahnik, known for sexy high-end shoes, had a drawing of an old-fashioned side-buttoned ankle boot on his invitation — but with a stiletto heel.
—Beth J. Harpaz, http://www.twitter.comAP_Travel
OSCAR DE LA RENTA ADDS A LITTLE SASS TO HIS LUXURY
Oscar de la Renta is known for the sumptuous glamour of his beautifully crafted gowns, and there was plenty of that in his fall 2014 collection.
But the designer signalled on Tuesday evening, as a select crowd of loyal customers and media packed into his studio, that he wants to also satisfy a customer looking for some edge. There were very wide black leather pants paired with a mink jacket in black and white — with a blue collar. There was a cream shearling jacket paired with charcoal pants, and black-and-white booties.
And while you may not think of de la Renta as a studded motorcycle jacket kind of guy, he is: His version came in a form-fitting suit, with a laser-cut, gold-studded leather jacket and skirt. Black suede boots finished off the look.
The gowns came later: a daringly sheer black tulle dress with black sequins and lace, and another black tulle number with a gold foil print.
Two dresses made their own music: tulle gowns, one in gold and one in silver, embroidered with lacquered feathers and enough beads to create that striking sound effect. The piece de resistance: a sumptuous painted polka dot ruffle gown in black and white.
—Jocelyn Noveck, http://www.twitter.com/JocelynNoveckAP